Evoking Madrid

Just finished reading a novel by Ben Lerner about Madrid and the inescapable craziness that besets visitors to the city. I was pulled into the world of Adán, as he is called by his Spanish friends-- an America poet on a prestigious scholarship. The evocation of the literary life are humorous as well as  sad. References that reveals the pathetic nature of life and the constant energies that one must marshall to survive.


I knew I was hooked when I read A´s reaction to Van der Weyden´s The Descent from the Cross, one of my favorite painting in the Prado. The visit to the Prado is followed by countless travels thru the urban landscape of Madrid, Granada, and Barcelona. A is challenged by Spain, language, culture, and adult life. The novel develops with insight and humanity. One reviewer stated: "I suspect Adam had it right all along — there must always be a striving for fluency and transparency, but what keeps life interesting is that it will never be achieved."

I love it!

I believe I will send a copy to la noruega in the hopes that she enjoys the delight of discovery and the misery of unfulfilled love.

Discovering Delic

While in Madrid this November, I decided to explore Delic, a café near la Plaza de la Paja. Neat little place with funky decor. Full of sabor madrileño y el estilo que gusta. I went one day with la noruega where we ordered some specialty coffees and empanadas. Another day I went sin acompañante to relax and settle for a night of work. I order a capucchino and a "besito". Oh my! ¡qué experiencia tan sabrosa! Two tiny meringues glued by caramel.

The Plaza de la Paja is a unique location, surrounded by tons of monuments and some very wonderful eating establishments, including "Viva La Vida", a vegetarian place with style. The whole area lies in the La Latina area. Energy and life abounds.

My piso was located in this area, not far from the Plaza de Cascorro. A comfortable place, nicely equipped with washer, quality kitchen. The street seems typical urban Madrid, but safe. Hopefully, I will return and enjoy the sights and sounds of that area.

In Madrid again, Noviembre 2011

In Madrid. November 2011. I arrived last Tuesday, 16 Nov. Lovely time here, with Fall rain.  Stayed at RoomMate, and have moved into a spacious piso with lovely rooms and well-equipped near the La Latina metro station, up a block from "El Rastro". Cool!

La Latina piso

My visit is two-fold. Collect information on Study Abroad-related  programming. A second reason is a visit to the Nacional.

My first evening I had dinner at Emma, my very favorite. Lovely salad, and an order of bacalao.

Tuesday I arrived at around 8ish with the metro station totally empty. But made it to the hotel in time to relax and have breakfast. And then a long sleep.

RoomMate breakfast.

As I shifted to Madrid time, I found this incredible bakery near Calle Belén, on the Calle Barquillo. It is called Pomme Sucre, a wonderfully enticing site. Prices are high.

Madrid y los indignados

While I was Madrid in July, I had the opportunity to witness firsthand the protests of "los indignados", an incredible movement protesting the economic and social injustices of various policies in effect in Spain. The atmosphere was sixty-like, America. Reminded me of moments in my younger age where young people congregated to protest the establishment's hold on things.

Camped in the Puerta del Sol and on the Paseo del Prado, these protestors have brought some fresh air into the ossified world of Spanish politics...Madrid's central square has become an urban encampment — with tents, chairs, couches, guitar-playing folks, and air mattresses. A similar scene occurred on the tree-lined boulevard where protestors set up encampments. Madrileños basically ignored the scene, but the rest of the world paid attention to the political ripples.

As I walked through Sol Sunday, 25 July, I found it remarkable how the Spaniards embrace this type of political activism. The ages varied from young to old, radical artist-like to normal folks concerned about the economics and its impact on Spain. In reality, I was walking through a historical point in Spain´s long, intricate history.

I read in yesterday´s news that the police had swept through these areas to remove the protestors and their tents in preparation for the visit by the Pope to Madrid in mid-August. In a country where maybe only 4 percent are practicing Catholics, this country still believes itself Catholic.Spain is different indeed!